Recentlly serviced a HP G60 laptop, that was shutting down randonly and customer stated screen would distort at times.
HP G60 Blocked Internal Exhaust = Overheat
Installed a temperature monitoring program on the laptop. And just booting up to desktop, “idle temperature” was 79-87 celsius, which is overheat high temperature range, especially on laptops. Began a malware scan, and within 20 seconds temperature went from 82 celsius to 116 celsius.. red zone, fry temperature.
I immediately stopped the scan, and shut the laptop down. Disconnected cord and battery and opened this HP G60 laptop up. Cooling Fan & Heatsink cooling grill was completely blocked off with dust build up.
Picture of the internal fan exhaust on right >>>>
SiteGround Web Hosting Friends Special 1 FULL YEAR at $9.95!
MozyHome Remote Automatic Daily On Line Backup $5.99 per Month!
Why The HP G60 / G62 Overheats?
#1 – Plugged Up Internal Heatsink Exhaust
#2 – HP’s MAJOR Cooling Defect / Poor Heat Transfer
#3 – Small Restricted Bottom Intake Vent
A blocked internal heatsink exhaust cannot exhaust the heat, and cannot cool down ANY laptop properly.
These HP G And “DV” series laptops are prone to overheating, not only yours but this article gets 60+ views a day!
Search terms viewers used to find this article, as reported in account statistics for this Blog:
“HP G60 overheat, HP G60 overheating, overheated HP G60, hp g62 overheating, hp g62 overheating problem, g60 motherboard thermal, hp g60 overheating fix, HP overheating solution” etc…………….
HP’s thermal pad does not transfer the full heat generated by the video graphics chip (GPU), to the copper heatsink. Poorly applied thermal compound, poor quality thermal compound that breaks down overtime.
Internal heatsink exhaust gets blocked by dust/hair (photo above) increasing the heat.
Bottom intake vent is very small, with very small “slots” which I believe restricts cool air flow into the laptop. By the amount of dust found in this HP G60 exhaust (top picture), not to sure about this one.
Lightspeeds PC Repair Augusta GA – Facebook Page
Overheating usually begins with random automatic shutdown of the laptop. Sometimes will not turn on right away until cooled down. Vertical or horizontal, scattered lines appearing on screen usually means your video graphics card can be overheating. Long term overheating is not good for the hard drive, and can OR will damage the motherboard/laptop entirely.
HP also used that crap thermal pad on the video graphics chip, and stock thermal compound on the cpu also. This same setup is on there “DV” 2000, 6000, & 9000 series laptops. I removed HP’s thermal pad installed copper shim on video chip, cleaned the fan & heatsink, and a thin layer of fresh Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal compound on processor/cpu and video graphics chip …. best of the best! Drilled out 5 more cooling vents on bottom base of laptop case. Then re-assembled laptop.
Acer Laptop Overheat - Check the dust clumps all over fan & exhaust
Picture Of HP’s Heatsink Thermal Pad
HP G60 After Cleaning and Cooling Modification Repair:
Idle Temperaure Now = 40-47 celsius
Load Temperature Now = No higher than 62 celcius.
And what’s important is how quick the laptop cools after “under full load” ends.
What Is Overheat Temperatures On Laptops?
Idle temperatures of 70-75 Celsius is considered to warm.
Idle temperatures of 80-85++ is considered hot, and overheating in a laptop.
(Idle temp is basically just sitting at your desktop, with no programs running)
The processor/cpu can handle high temperatures of 100, but inside the tight quarters of a laptop, with poor cooling, it is very bad, no good for the rest of the electronics and motherboard on a laptop. Hard drives do not last long in that type of long term heat. And the cooling defect that causes video failure in the HP laptops, that is due to excessive heat melting the solder connections under the video graphics chip.
Idle temperature of 45-60 celsius is good normal range when laptop is idle. Laptop will peak at times over 70-75 celsius, depending on “cpu or gpu load” but should cool back down quickly especially when “full load” has ended.
If the old temperatures on this laptop would have continued, this HP G60 laptop would of been dead fairly soon, a paperweight! I recommend ANYONE with a HP DV series OR G series laptop to have this cleaning, cooling modification done. Otherwise your laptop will be junk, burned up electronics.
dv2000 Laptop Inside Exhaust Blocked
These HP G and DV series laptops were built operating AT overheat temperature, due to the use of the thermal pad HP installed on the video graphics chip, and crap thermal compound on the cpu.
95% of the time I find the internal heatsink fan exhaust blocked by dust build up in ALL laptops. THIS WILL happen overtime, keeping the cooling vents blown out periodically from the outside should prevent this from building up inside. Once it builds up thick inside, it cannot simply be blown off. The heat bakes it to the inside heatsink grill. If you do blow this heavy internal blockage off from the outside exhaust vent on laptop, you are more likely to blow the large clumps of dust back into the fan, which will jam the fan up completely. Laptop needs to be taken apart in order to clean this heavy build up, brushed off, then blown with air.
SiteGround Web Hosting Friends Special 1 FULL YEAR at $9.95!
HP dv9820 Overheated Laptop
If your fan is running very loud constantly, laptop keyboard & bottom area feels VERY hot, and laptop is freezing up, with random complete shutdowns. The internal heatsink exhaust grill as in pictures, is most likely blocked from the inside with dust etc. Combine this problem with the poor quality manufactures applied thermal compound used on the CPU & GPU breaks down overtime also. But the main problem I find is what you see in pictures, and described here. When the laptop overheats, and shuts itself down, usually will not be able to power on until it cools down. Long term excessive heat WILL DAMAGE the mainboard’s electronics, shorten the life of your hard drive (your data) and kill the laptop completely.
MozyHome Remote Automatic Daily On Line Backup $5.99 per Month!
HPG60/G62 Cooling Solution Or Overheating Repair:
- Complete Dis-Assembly Of The Laptop
- Clean Cooling Fan & Heatsink Exhaust
- Clean Old Thermal Compound Off CPU
- Remove Hp’s Thermal Pad
- Copper Shim
- Repaste CPU & GPU With Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound
- Check For Bio’s Update
- Drill Out Few More Vent Holes In Bottom Casing While Dis-Assembled
www.PCTechAugusta.com, laptop dis-assembly, internal cleaning, fan & heatsink cooling modification and re-assembly service at $75
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound I have tested against Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound, actually does a better job cooling by a few lower degress than Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Silver Ceramique.
Arctic Silver 5:
- Well known product for it’s thermal transfer cooling properties
- Cure time 200 hours (gives best heat transfer)
- Needs to be re-applied after a year or 2 (No problem for desktops)
- Contains silver, which means it is conductive, need to be careful on application of.
Arctic Silver Ceramique:
- Almost as good as Arctic Silver 5, 3-4 degrees higher temps
- Cure time 25 hours (gives best heat transfer)
- Non-Conductive, will not short out near by components
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound:
- 3-5 degress LOWER temperature over Arvtic Silver 5 Thermal Paste products
- No “Cure Time” (best heat transfer once applied)
- Non Conductive, will not short out near by components
- 8 year durability!
Temperature Monitoring Programs:
Speccy
Core Temp
Hardware Info Tool
Follow @augustapcrepair
Websites:
www.PCTechAugusta.com
www.AugustaPcRepair.com
MozyHome Remote Automatic Daily On Line Backup $5.99 per Month!
Lightspeeds PC Repair Augusta GA – Facebook Page
SiteGround Web Hosting Special 1 YEAR at $9.95!
If i face this problem now I find the solution what I do. Thank you
Well, the laptop needs to be dis-assembled and the fan & heatsink inside grill needs to be cleaned out for one. Your fan grill inside is probably plugged up with dust.
the thermal pad on video chip that HP uses does nothing for cooling the video chip down. It produces more heat. The thermal pad needs to come off, and a copper shim needs to make full contact with chip and heatsink. Clean the old thermal compound off cpu chip and apply Artic silver 5 thermal compound to the cpu chip & video chip & copper shim on video chip.
All basically explained above in post.
Contact thru website above, ship laptop in, will repair, clean, modify the cooling system and ship back. Cost $75 plus return shipping.
Hi. I have a customer with one of these G60s and I notice it has the same crap cooling system as the problematic dv2000/dv6000/dv9000 series notebooks.
There looks to be about a 1mm+ gap on it, but I think I should go a bit thicker (1.2mm?) so there is pressure on the GPU. What size copper shim do you use on these? You apply thermal compound on either side of the shim, right?
Thanks in advance.
I’ve used a 1mm copper shim, with thermal compound on both sides.
Had someone that contacted me, and told me he use to work for Hp, and he has 2 dead “dv” series laptops, just out of warranty. He told me the “scoop” on that problem. Said Nvidia instructed Hp to use the thermal pad,,, then afterwards they were recalling, extending the warranty on many models because of this.
Because of that pad, the hot heat from the GPU never transfers to the copper heatsink. The fan is temp controled, so it only is picking up heat from the cpu chip. With direct copper to copper contact on the gpu and good thermal compound, the fan “kicks in” quicker because it is now picking up heat from both cpu & gpu temps. The fan kicks in, cools the heatsink tubes thru the heatsink grill (exhaust), therefore cooling both chips down.. with the modification.
The one above in article I cooled down from running 80-98+ celcius, to 45-55,, but month later laptop was dead. That high excessive, prolonged heat damage was already done. When it came to me, it was beginning to show the symptoms, random shut downs, and video artifacts, distortion, no video at times, etc. As in the picture, the fan exhaust was completely blocked which contributed to that heat.
http://www.topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/819-nvidia-class-action-lawsuit-settlement
Half the problem that causes the heat “build up” is a plugged up internal exhaust fan,,, on EVERY laptop. If you have never blown out the exhaust vents on your laptop periodically, what you see in the pictures is what it looks like on the inside. When it’s like this, it will not simply blow off/clear from outside. Either bakes on to the grill from the high heat trying to escape, or if it does blow clear it has no where to go. These large dust clumps will jam the fan up, or get sucked right back into the heatink grill plugging it up again. Laptop needs to do taken apart when it is like this.
What were the dimensions of the copper shim that you used? Also, did you cut it to size or did you order it from somewhere pre-cut?
2cm x 2cm x 1mm thick. Pre cut off ebay. With thermal compound on both sides of copper shim. 1.2mm thickness will go, without putting to much pressure on the chip.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230501746921&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1944wt_1139
my laptop has experienced this problem, right now it does not turn on, but rather beeps once onthe caps lock key. hp website says that that led blink code means the cpu is fautly, can augusta repair fix my laptop? how much will it cost?
Hard to say without seeing, checking the laptop. But what you mentioned: “does not turn on, but rather beeps once on the caps lock key” sounds as if the board could be already fried, defective. If the board is defective and needs replaced, IF a replacement is available and reasonable, yes we can repair the laptop. Laptop motherboard are not cheap, usually used, refurbished and expensive. That is why to keep the laptop cool, clean take in for cleaning periodically. I doubt it is the “CPU”, more like a already damaged motherboard to me.
I have a G62 and I’m interested in having you do the repairs you outline here, how would I go about sending it in?
Will send you an email, with a few pdf forms for completion, with ship address.
i have 2 customers bring me the g60 hp and with both of them doing the same thing . After coming on and staying up for about 5 minutes, freeze, and get nothing. Have to shut down manually. and then reboot. the heat problem seems to be the issue with one of them and the other is virus related.the heat problem on the 1st one is taken care of from this forum’s methods to resolve. thanks for the technical input and discussion on this issue.
Your welcome! If the other does not have a heat issue currently it most likely will eventually. Heat is not good on the hard drive in general. Might appear to be virus related/symptoms, but can be drive related or OS.
I’ve got the same overheating problem with a HP G62. Exact same symptoms. I’m in the construction industry and things are very slow with work and so I’m interested in trying to fix this myself. I’ve worked many times in the past on desk top units but of course laptops are a lot different. What is the proper way to take this computer apart? With the exception of installing a copper shim the procedure sounds fairly easy if enough care is taken.
Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Start off by taking every screw out of the back and battery compartment (if any). Remove HD and all compartment covers. Hp has the service manual on line, pdf download, just google search “hp G62 service manual”, came up 1st link at top.
Can you give me any guidance for:
1. best way to remove old thermal compound?
2. please describe the copper heat sink shim. do I make it from sheet copper? What size and how thick?
4. what is the copper shim to be attached to? how is it attached?
Thanking you in advance.
James
“best way to remove old thermal compound?”
Scrape off with old plastic gift card or old credit card, clean real good with 90% rubbing alcohol and coffee filter (no lint)
“please describe the copper heat sink shim. do I make it from sheet copper? What size and how thick?”
you can get these off of ebay, pre-cut, 1mm thick
“what is the copper shim to be attached to? how is it attached?”
shim is used in place of the gap left when you remove the thermal pad off gpu chip (video chip), use thermal compound on both sides of copper contact areas, and chip itself very thin layer. Shim has to be the right size, perfectly flat. to thick will raise heatsink off cpu chip which will result in cpu overheating.
Thanks, that’s a big help.
I haven’t taken the laptop apart yet so I’m not sure what the remaining gap to fill with the shim will be. Should I get more than one shim in case I need more or is the 1mm gap a sure thing?
Thanks again,
James
Copper shim goes on the graphics chip, remove the HP thermal pad off this chip,, only 1mm copper shim will be fine. (Must fill gap left by thermal pad removal) Clean thermal compound HP crap off cpu chip as described above. Forgot to mention,, I tape the outside area (green area) around graphics chip with high heat “Kapton” tape (not the silver main contact area). Even though the copper shim has a small clearance between green section & small silver contacts, the tape is used to prevent any contact and a short between the green outer area of video chip. Make sure to use good thermal compound on cpu AND video chip. AND the back side of copper shim that makes contact with the heatsink when put back in place.
No copper shim needed on the cpu, just clean off HP’s crap, clean real good with alcohol, and apply thermal compound. Arctic Cooling MX2 thermal compound is what I use. Spread thin layer with old credit card across chips. (very good thermal qualities, non conductive, no cure time and 8 year durability)
The copper shim on the graphics chips just rests on the chip (remove HP’s thermal pad,, use thermal compound), the heatsink screwed back in place holds it in place. Copper is a good conductor of heat, dis-sapates heat away from heat source, this is where HP failed on design. The cpu has direct contact with the copper heatsink,, why not the graphics chip. There thermal pad is garbage, does not transfer the heat well. And once the fan plugs up with dust on the inside,, it’s only a matter of time before laptop fails completely.
Make sure to take the fan off heatsink,, (small screws) dust traps on the inside of heatsink grill,, the exhaust… clean! You will not see it just looking at it, unless dust clumps are hanging out of the sides of fan area.
!!!!!!!!FOR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS !!!!!!!!!!!
try this first, for HP g62 models just update Bios version go to HP web side
If your fan inside the laptop is BLOCKED by dust, hair buildup etc, this Bio’s update will not help, will not change or fix the heat problem. IT will not fix HP’s faulty thermal pad use inside, and slop job thermal paste application inside either. This laptop in this post HAD current Bio’s update
Very good info. I was facing over heat problem. i was able to fix sort of my laptop problem
I have an HP Pavilion dv9910 which had symptoms listed in other emails to you, so it was overheating & I didn’t know it. Now it won’t turn on at all, so I guess the motherboard is fried. What do I do now? I backed up to DVD except the last month of use. Are my photos from my camera lost from the last month or is there a chance of retrieval? I would like to repair this unit & resume use.
I bought a new HP g6 & also a Targus board with fans to set it on to keep it cool, but if dust is the problem with overheating, is the additional external fan going to create more of a problem?
I do recommend those usb cooling fan pads for any laptop. Keeping it elevated, and air circulation towards the bottom is important. Air needs to pull into laptop in order for it to cool properly, so dust will pull into laptop. Need to keep vents blasted out with a compressed air can………….. WHILE THE LAPTOP IS OFF, periodically.
I found an Hp desktop in trash the other day . I took it home and did a restore on it and for a few weeks now its been working good. untill the heat issues starting happening. would you rec amend the same things to be done with the laptop for a desktop ?
Well desktops are a bit different. But same rule applies: dirty fans, dirty cooling vents, dirty cpu fan heatsink, dirty case & system board will all contribute to heat in a desktop. Manufacture thermal compound is cheap generic crap. Re-apply fresh thermal compound to cpu & heatsink.
I have a HP G60-231wm and i had really bad overheating problems it would run over 100C just watching youtube or videos in general. After I did the cooling fix the general temps are lower it tends to run in the 50 to 60 with general use and when playing video, but if i don’t have the cpu speed limited in windows by at least 5 or 10% it will run about 20 to 30 C degrees warmer. I ran the Intel burn in test unrestricted with a cooling base and the cpu it hit 104C. After the test the temps took around 5 to 10 mins to cool back down to 60C. Well as long as i don’t try to play games (witch it can’t do very well anyway) and keep the limit on it does seem to stay in safe operating temps but it just seems like there is not that much heat being blown out the back. The fix did fix the general operating temps but not the full load max temps. Could i have a bad heat sink?
“Could i have a bad heat sink?” – You bought an HP, a bad laptop.
Thermal compound applied correctly, is the heatsink making good contact with cpu chip, is the fan spinning up?
Idiots at HP build build the laptop with a hot cpu in general, probably designed for desktops with better cooling and airflow. Getting to a point when someone comes in with an HP laptop, I hand it back to them, they are SO problematic. I fix the problem, week later customer is back with another internal problem in relation to the long term excessive heat. Like hard drive now out, and he thinks I did something to it last week. Drives do not like excessive long term heat. like the rest of the electronics on that motherboard.
I will never make the mistake of getting a HP again. I applied Arctic Silver 5 but it looked like there may have be a little heat discoloration on the cpu and the heatsink is making good contact and the fan does speed up with the temp. Well this thing has the Athlon Dual-Core QL-64 witch i think is one of the faster cpu’s they threw in these things. I have had the laptop for 2 or 3 years so i am still surprised it is running but besides the heat problems nothing else has really given be a problem. I am still running stock hard drive, ram, and disk drive and its all working perfectly.
I have an HP G62…having the same overheating problems. I already had my fan replaced by HP while it was in warranty, but within a few months of being OUT of warranty its overheating again. I’m not really sure what to do…Its hard not having my computer cus of school and stuff so i’m trying to avoid having to mail it in anywhere…do you know of any company’s in LA/California area that would be able to fix it for me or do you guys have a physical location I could drop by in this area?
Hey…I’ve got an HPG62 and am having this issue at the moment..because of school i’m hesitant to wait for mail in service and be laptop-less for a couple of weeks…do you guys have a physical location I could drop my laptop off to or know of any companies in the LA region that would be able to fix this?
Wouldn’t have the slightest idea, I’m just a local home based pc repair here in Georgia
Hey, like so many others I too have made the mistake of buying a HP laptop. I am now paying the price with an overheating G62 i3 which I’ve had for a couple years now, but has gradually gotten worse to the point that its ridiculous- so I’ve decided to take action.
Hey, like so many others I too have made the mistake of buying a HP laptop. I am now paying the price with an overheating G62 i3 which I’ve had for a couple years now, but has gradually gotten worse to the point that its ridiculous- so I’ve decided to take action.
I’ve taken everything apart and have removed the motherboard along with heatsink and the attached fan. Using the guidance of your very useful article, I’ve cleared the clogged up fan/heatsink and am soon going to replace the thermal paste to the CPU/ heatsink copper surface as you describe. The problem that I have regards the GPU and its heatsink, or rather lack of. This is the first time that my laptop has ever been taken apart, and im no expert unlike yourself, but it seems that there is no heatsink attached to the GPU at all. Unlike the problem that you have described about the crappy thermal plate making poor contact with the GPU, the heatsink on my laptop is only connected to the CPU and the GPU ( a good few inches away) is simply left with the bare shiny surface incontact with nothing. I can send a pic if i am unclear.
My question is then; because this particular type of g62 was made without a heatsink connection to the GPU, does this mean that its not neccessary for there to be any kind of heat exchange mechanism to cool the GPU? If some modication is required in order to improve any fault of HP, what would you reccomend i do to the GPU?- because as im sure you’ll appreciate, no amount of copper shim will solve this problem.
Thanks for reading my huge post, look forward to reply or any helpfull tips from anyone for that matter
Are you sure you are looking at the GPU chip? And not something else?
All of these HP’d I have seen do have a factory installed “Thermal pad” (usually blue or white) on the GPU, which the CPU heatsink does cover, and is suppose to press down onto. The thermal pad is garbage, the crap thermal paste or aluminum crap they sometimes have on CPU breaks down overtime. And with the plugged up fan exhaust, makes for a short life of the laptop. Majority of the heat comes from the CPU chip, along with there poor quality thermal paste, aluminum foil garbage. The GPU chip usually sits very close the the CPU on most of these models.
I remove HP’s therrmal pad off GPU, and use a copper shim bout 1mm thick in it’s place. I use kapton heat tape around outer green area of GPU to prevent any outer chip contacts to make contact with the copper shim.
Clean the CPU and GPU real good with rubbing Alcohol 90%, apply thin layer of Thermal Compound (Arctic Cooling MX2) om CPU & GPU,, and also the back side (both side of) copper shim. Side the touches GPU, and side that makes contact with the heatsink.
After inserting Copper Shim from ebay you had recommended (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230501746921&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1944wt_1139) i am unable to get the left side of the laptop (as you are facing the screen) to snap back together. The rest of it snaps together fine. There are no obstructions i can find. Have you encountered the shim causing this issue? I used the thinner shim of the two sent to me. Two shims were sent to me i used the thinner of the two.
1mm shim on gpu will not cause what you described above.
Thanks!
After $7 in parts my g62 is 20-30 degrees cooler. There is a great dis/re assemly vid here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVpi4tJQL3w
Also I was wondering where you drilled your extra vent holes?
For David on 4/30 — I had this problem at first too. For me it was due the the microphone cable. There are little hooks for routing them.
Finally, everyone just keep your screws separate and labeled!
Thanks again!!
Well with the motherboard out, of course,,, I just drilled out a few more vent holes in the bottom casing right around where the cpu and video chip is at. I don’t think the internal fan will pull of intake ait thru these extra holes. Butg will help ventilate the heat that still produces by these 2 chips. AND if you use a USB cooling pad under the laptop, these drilled out holes will benefit.